The origin of the cover

From the Catholic Monarchs to the most current Alfonso XIII through Philip II, there are popular references that mention that in their routes and lengths
trips they stopped at inns or attended agapes where they were served drinks
"covered" with a slice of ham with the aim not to prevent
get drunk, but that the liquid content in question does not collect dust or
The flies will dive there.

TAPA = "Small portion of some food that is served as an accompaniment to a drink." We went to the RAE, first of all, to find out a definition of our typical tapa, which is not, however, the first to be included in the dictionary. It was in 1936 that an explanation of this term entered the publication as “a slice of ham or chorizo ​​that was placed on top of the glass or jug ​​of wine and was accompanied or not with bread.” It is older but perhaps more historically accurate although, in reality, in 1936 tapas were already part of our DNA.

The tapa is associated with bars . Not to the table and tablecloth restaurants, but to the long-awaited bars and high tables where you can sit among the crowd. What is the origin of something that is postulated as intangible cultural heritage of humanity, something that, with that name, is only known in our country and that is a constant craving of Spaniards and an irrefutable claim of foreigners? “Tapas have become one of the most representative elements of the identity, not only food, but also cultural, of our country, acquiring great international recognition that already associates them in an inextricable way with everything Spanish,” reads the BOE. Who came up with them?

Tapas: a story of Kings, not of the people

It is surprising, but one of the most widespread theories speaks of King Alfonso X as its inventor. They called him the Wise One for a reason, right? Due to an illness he suffered from, possibly gout, he was prescribed to drink a certain amount of wine. He "covered" its effects by eating small amounts of food at a time. He thought it was such a good idea that, after recovering, he insisted that all households in the kingdom do the same to prevent public drunkenness.

A second theory, also very monarchical, mentions the Catholic Monarchs and also the effects of alcohol. To alleviate the problems with the drivers who "messed up" when leaving the bar, the bartenders were forced to serve the glass of wine or the jug of beer with a "tapa" that consisted of a plate with some cold food, since whether it was ham, cheese, or whatever was at hand. Customers had to finish the food first so they could remove the lid and drink to their hearts' content.

The rulers continue to be protagonists in these stories. From the Catholic Monarchs to the most current Alfonso XIII through Philip II. There are popular references that mention that on their routes and long trips they stopped at inns or went to agapes where they were served a drink "covered" with a slice of ham with the aim not to prevent them from getting drunk, but to ensure that the liquid content in question It did not collect dust nor did flies dive into it.

This last practical use of the tapa is the most heard along with the "lunch" or aperitif so as not to arrive faint at the main meal. Cervantes himself already mentions it in passages from Don Quixote or his Exemplary Novels. Moving forward, in the 19th century we connected with Andalusia, a Community known for its good tapas. There are those who refer to its presence in Seville, Almería or Jaén always with the use of covering the glass to avoid dirt or the glass so that the wine does not lose its aroma. Surely it is not the first or the last time that you do the same. More like because you don't have hands or place to support it and the glass is perfect for you.

In more or less formal contexts, tapas have reached haute cuisine. From Adriá himself to any Michelin star restaurant chef in Spain pull them for exquisite bites or for more casual versions of their business. Let's remember, without going any further, the tapas of Paco Roncero's Estado Puro. Without reaching the red guide or its derivatives, many gastrobars innovate and give rise to true culinary wonders that make the mouth water and that go far beyond the salad, the omelet, the croquettes, the bravas or the montadito that, for On the other hand, they are some of the most universal and exported, often with little qualitative success but great success in other cities around the world.

Whatever their origin, the fact is that they are here to stay and are the envy of the planet. We have no doubt that UNESCO will eventually fully certify its imprint. Meanwhile, how hungry! Shall we go for tapas?

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